Wednesday, 21 July 2010

New Fragrances - Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection

The Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection is a brand new range of four fragrances for men.

This is the description for each fragrance:

Big Pony #1 The Sporty Fragrance. Citrus Aromatic. "This refreshing tonic matches up lime and grapefruit".  Grapefruit is a fabulous fresh element in any perfume. Here's MyPerfumeLife's list of top grapefruit fragrances.

Big Pony #2 The Seductive Fragrance. Oriental Fougere. "A sexy mix that hooks up dark chocolate and musk for undeniable attraction."


Big Pony #3 The Adventurous Fragrance. Fougere Woody. "A thrilling scent of mint and ginger root..." For Ginger lovers, try Jo Malone's Nutmeg and Ginger.

Big Pony #4 The Stylish Fragrance. Woody Fruity. "An energising boost that layers mandarin and kyarawood..." Mandarin and Oranges are great in  many fragrances. Here are a few to try: Atelier Cologne's Orange Sanguine, Orange Star by Andy Tauer and Tangerine Vert by Miller Harris.

The Ralph Lauren Big Pony Collection will be available across the UK from August 2010 and costs £35 for 75ml. With the help of MrPerfumeLife, I will be posting reviews shortly.

Tuesday, 20 July 2010

Perfume and Fragrance in Literature

Below is an extract from the novel, The Master Butcher's Singing Club, which may not immediately appear to be directly related to perfume. However, it conveys the rituals involved in bathing habits and bathrooms, in which perfume plays a very large part.

Some books manage to convey smell, taste and as well as atmospheres and moods perfectly. Louise Erdrich's The Master Butchers Singing Club is one of those books. Here's an extract about the bathroom in the Waldvogels' house, set in America in the 1920s:

"...Over the tub, there hung an array of cleaning implements: a brush with a handle of polished apple wood to scrub the back, a smaller and brisker brush for the fingers, a large pumice stone for callused feet, and a tiny, hair-soft, blue handled brush for the face. There was also a stash of soaps, from the harshest lye soap to the French-milled lilac ovals that Eva used. These soaps were kept in a square cedar box with a slatted floor to drain away excess water, so the soaps would last. Next to the tub on another wooden shelf, behind curtains made of ticking material, towels were stacked - the cloth worn thin, but bleached to a sunny whiteness. The entire room was painted a pleasant yellow, and as its wide glass block window faced southeast, it caught the morning light. It was a comfortable and generous sort of room that would lead a person to think that the Waldvogels were wealthy. They were not. It was Eva's doing. She had a knack for saving money and making a good effect out of nothing. "

This paragraph describing the bathroom is intensely evocative. A private bathroom is a highly personal place, so it's intriguing to have such a clear picture of somebody else's bathroom, even if it's fictional. The sense of detail in phrases like, "a slatted floor to drain away water, so the soaps would last", emphasises the importance of ritual and repetition in bathroom habits.

The juxtaposition of meagreness and luxury creates a vivid scene. For instance, 'the towels were stacked...' implies luxury. It suggests an almost hotel-like heap of fluffy white towels. But immediately afterwards the author writes, '...the cloth worn thin - but bleached to a sunny whiteness'.

The suggestion that the fictional character, Eva, "can create a good effect out of nothing" is surely every domestic goddess's dream. Don't we all want to create a home environment that looks 'wealthy' purely through the careful cultivation of the right details?

Although the fragrances in the bathroom aren't described in this brief extract, there are constant references to cooking, tastes and smells thoughout The Master Butcher's Singing Club. So much of life is unspoken and undiscussed. Sadly, perfume and smells very much fall into this unmentioned category. However, our senses of touch, feeling and smell have such a huge impact on our appreciation of life, that's it's verging on tragic that we don't pay more attention to them. 

Monday, 19 July 2010

Kiehl's Essence Oils & Summer Scent Selections

Kiehl's Essence Oils are currently only £10, so an affordable option for a refreshing smell to take away on holiday with you. The roller ball applicator is convenient, so you don't risk a leaking bottle of perfume in your suitcase. This morning I tried two -  grapefruit and pear - both light, summer smells. Kiehl's Essence Oils range also includes musk and vanilla.

Check out MyPerfumeLife's selection if you're still looking for the perfect Eau de Cologne. Vogue magazine's Summer Scent collection and their Modern Vintage list both have some great ideas for the summer months. And if you're chasing the elusive aroma of the sea breeze, then Chandler Burr's Ocean Currents from the New York Times features some true summer classics.

Thursday, 15 July 2010

Good smells to help me sell our home

We're trying to sell our place at the moment - hence the reduced number of posts. This is my secret arsenal of good smells to help lure in potential buyers.

I'm burning a vanilla candle in the sitting room.
I've bought my favourite flowers, peonies, to look good and smell good:
Tea tree is great for making bathrooms feel really clean. I've splashed it round the basins liberally.

And (perhaps rather oddly) I love the smell of bleach. It reminds me of swimming pools. So this has gone in all the obvious places.
What else should I do? Coffee in the grinder? Bread in the oven? Too corny? I've read that I should put cinnamon sticks in the waste disposal unit. But we don't have one. I've also read that you can heat a saucepan of juice with slices of apple, lemon, cinnamon and oranges in it.

And it smells terrific. Not sure if it's going to pervade the whole flat - but at the very least it's making the kitchen smell great.  I used a tin of pears in juice, one sliced apple, lime wedges and half a cinnamon stick.

I would love to hear your home-selling aroma suggestions.

Wednesday, 14 July 2010

Reglisse Noire by 1000Flowers

Reglisse Noire by perfumer Jessica Buchanan at 1000Flowers arrived in the post today. It's an intriguing perfume, not least because of the credentials of the perfumer. 
Jessica Buchanan grew up on the seashores and in the wilderness of western Canada. Following a childhood obsession with wild plants, she began the study of essential oils in 1991. After formal training and certification in the field of clinical aromatherapy, Jessica began to explore the art of natural perfumery. 

After 4 years of work in her own lab, she moved to France to study at the Grasse Institute of Perfumery (Alumni 2007). Here she found a depth of understanding of the perfumed art that was highly refining.

Following her education, she interned in two of the traditional perfume houses of the region (Robertet and Mane) which facilitated an enlightening inside view of the industry.

The city of Grasse and its history can be enchanting and Jessica found herself absorbed into its culture. She continues to spend most of her time there, exploring a creative fusion of her natural roots with the training she received in modern perfumery. 

Reglisse Noir (meaning licorice) is made up of notes including white pepper, ozone, mint, shiso leaf (pictured), star anise, ginger, licorice, cocoa, patchouli, vanilla, vetiver and musk.
I'm looking forward to trying this perfume and will review it soon.

Tuesday, 13 July 2010

Fleur du Matin by Miller Harris

Fleur du Matin by Miller Harris is a perfume that I have reviewed before - and my conclusion then was that it was very citrusy. Smelling Fleur du Matin again - I've revised my opinion. It's a beautiful fragrance that conjures up unopened morning buds. If I had to guess the flower, I would say a peony bud, although peonies aren't mentioned in the description.
Fleur du Matin is gorgeous. It falls into a family of similar perfumes, all of which I would highly recommend. Fleur du Matin is probably most similar to Eau de Parfum Floral by Issey Miyake, a blend of rose and peony. For a similar floral, with a more abstract, sparkling quality, then Narciso Rodriguez for Her is a fabulous fragrance. And I can't go without mentioning Stella McCartney's Nude, which is the archetypal modern rose. All of these floral inspired perfumes share a clarity and purity that unites them.

Thursday, 8 July 2010

The Science of Scent at the Royal Institution 22nd July 2010

The Science of Scent event was cancelled back in April, and will now be taking place later this month, on the 22nd July at 7pm. Below is the description of the lecture from the Royal Institution. Maybe see you there!

Where do the sparkling, creative ideas for new perfumes come from? How are they translated into scent without compromising the creative purity of the idea? This lecture – the third in the series – covers one of the most abstract perfumery subjects: the creative origin of new perfumes. Find out what is going on inside the perfumer’s mind, how it is nurtured to deliver those scented moments of true brilliance, and how the ideas are developed into tomorrow’s perfume classics. Tickets £8. 

Wednesday, 7 July 2010

Quelques Fleurs L'Original Eau de Parfum - Houbigant Paris

If there's one thing that I like in perfume packaging, it's a beautiful bottle. Quelques Fleurs L'Original comes in a stylish frosted glass bottle. So, if first impressions count, this perfume makes a great one.

Quelques Fleurs starts off as a heady floral mix. Jasmine and tuberose are the flowers that really stand out, and in the first few minutes this fragrance is on the strong side. But I was pleasantly surprised once it had settled on my skin. I was left with a long-lasting white flower fragrance, which is buttery, soft and pleasing.

Quelques Fleurs is one of those perfumes that has been around forever. It was originally launched in 1912. I came across it recently because it was feature in Vogue magazine's summer scent selection last month.

If you like sexy floral fragrances you could also try L'Artisan Parfumeur's La Chasse aux Papillons which is a delicate white flower accord. Or for a sexy, evening jasmine, then Bvlgari's Jasmin Noir might be a good choice.

If you need any final confirmation that this is a sexy fragrance, and if twitter is to be trusted, Quelques Fleurs L'Original is the fragrance of the uber-sexy Dita Von Teese.

Friday, 2 July 2010

Luca Turin's Five Star Perfumes

This list holds endless fascination for me as it features so many perfumes that are still unfamiliar. It comes from Perfumes the A-Z Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, which is definitey worth a read. I come back to this perfume list regularly to give myself some ideas of what to try next.

31 Rue Cambon by Chanel

100% Love by S-Perfume

1740 by Histoires de Parfums

L'Air du Desert Marocain by Andy Tauer

Amouage Gold by Amouage (Guy Robert)

Angel by Thierry Mugler

Apres L'Ondee by Guerlain
Aromatics Elixir by Clinique (Bernard Chant) 
Azuree by Estee Lauder (Bernard Chant)

Azzaro pour Homme by Azzaro (Gerard Anthony)

Badgley Mischka by Badgley Mischka
Bandit by Robert Piguet (Germaine Cellier)

Beyond Paradise by Estee Lauder (Calice Becker)

Beyond Paradise Men by Estee Lauder (Calice Becker)

Black by Bvlgari (Annick Menardo)

Bois des Iles by Chanel (Ernest Beaux)

Boise de Violette by Serge Lutens (Pierre Bourdon and Chris Sheldrake)

Boucheron by Boucheron (Jean-Pierre Bethouart)

Breath of God by B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful

Calandre by Paco Rabanne

Calyx by Prescriptives (Sophia Grojsman)

Ca Sent Beau by Kenzo (Francoise Caron)

Chamade by Guerlain

Chinatown by Bond No. 9 (Aurelien Guichard)      

Cool Water by Davidoff (Pierre Bourdon)

Cristalle by Chanel

Cuir de Russie by Chanel

Derby by Guerlain

Diorella by Dior (Roudnitska)

Dior Homme by Dior (Olivier Polge)

Dune by Dior

Dzing! by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Eau de Guerlain by Guerlain

Eau Savage by Dior (Roudnitska)

Enlevement au Serail by Parfums MDCI

Envy by Gucci (Maurice Roucel)

Le Feu D'Issey by Issey Miyake

Fracas by Robert Piguet (Germaine Cellier)

Givenchy III by Givenchy

Grey Flannel by Geoffrey Beene

Habit Rouge by Guerlain

L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

Homage by Amouage

Insense by Givenchy

Insolence eau de parfum by Guerlain (Maurice Roucel)

Invasion Barbare by Parfums MDCI (Stephanie Bakouche)

Iris Silver Mist by Serge Lutens (Maurice Roucel)

Jicky by Guerlain

Joy parfum by Jean Patou (Henri Almeras)

Knize Ten by Knize (Francois Coty and Vincent Roubert)

Knowing by Estee Lauder

Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent

Lavender by Caldey Island (Hugo Collumbien)

Lolita Lempicka by Lolita Lempica (Annick Menardo)

Loulou by Cacharel (Jean Guichard)

Missoni by Missoni (Maurice Roucel)

Mitsouko by Guerlain (Jacques Guerlain)

MoslBuddJewChristHinDao by Elternhaus (Marc Buxton)

La Myrrhe by Serge Lutens (Christopher Sheldrake)

Nahema by Guerlain

New York by Parfums de Nicolai (Patricia de Nicolai)
No. 5 eau de toilette by Chanel
No. 5 parfum by Chanel
Odalisque by Parfums de Nicolai (Patricia de Nicolai)

Opium by YSL

Or Black by Pascal Morabito

Ormonde Man by Ormonde Jayne (Linda Pilkington)
Ormonde Woman by Ormonde Jayne (Linda Pilkington)
Osmanthe Yunnan by Hermes (Jean-Claude Ellena)

Oud Cuir D'Arabie by Montale

Patchouli 24 by Le Labo (Annick Menardo)

Pleasures by Estee Lauder 
Poison by Dior

Pour Monsieur by Chanel

Pour un Homme by Caron

Private Collection by Estee Lauder

Promesse de l'Aube by Parfums MDCI (Francis Kurkdjian)

Rive Gauche by YSL (Jacques Polge)

Rush by Gucci 
Sarrasins by Serge Lutens

Scent by Theo Fennell (Christophe Laudamiel)

Secretions Magnifiques, by Etat Libre d'Orange
S-eX by S-Perfume (Christophe Laudamiel)

Shalimar by Guerlain

Sycomore by Chanel

Le Temps d'une Fete by Parfums de Nicolai (Patricia de Nicolai)

Timbuktu by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Tocade by Rochas (Maurice Roucel)

Tommy Girl by Tommy Hilfiger
Le Troisieme Homme by Caron

Ubar by Amouage

Vanilia by L'Artisan Parfumeur

Vol de Nuit by Guerlain
White Linen by Estee Lauder 
Yatagan by Caron 
Yohji Homme by Yohji Yamamoto

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